Sunday, 22 April 2012

All things travel related



Hello from London

We landed on Monday night and it has been a busy week setting up here and getting organized. I have found a job which I am really excited about starting in a week and we have found a lovely wee flat in Clapham Common. Hopefully we can move in this week. Hamish has several meetings with recruiters lined up this week so we are well on our way to being proper London dwellers.

I promised some travel-related stories from Morocco, and some pictures. I think this sequence of photos says a lot about our experience...








Between the four of us, we traveled by boat, plane, overnight sleeper train, local train (which broke down about 4 hours from where we were supposed to be), camel, petite taxi (mostly Fiat Unos and the like), grande taxi (old 1990's Mercs),  tourist bus, local bus, and horse and cart.

Petite taxis operate only within the city limits. Grande taxis can go between cities, if they make it. One of our grande taxis seemed to be missing 1st and possibly 2nd gear for at least part of our trip between our broken down train in the middle of nowhere and Moulay Idriss where we were headed.

Our train and luggage pre-departure

Getting off the train in the middle of nowhere

Our grande taxi on the way to Moulay Idriss

The other thing about grande taxis is that they're allowed to take 6 passengers. In fact, unless you hire the whole car for an extra fee, the operators will cram 6 of you in to maximize the fare. We had 4 across the back seat (two women from Moulay Idriss, Becs and me) and 3 across the front (the driver, Hamish and Christian). Hilarious.

Cosy in the front seat


Next up in the Morocco installments is the kindness of strangers. I'm on the way to being convinced that Moroccans are the friendliest people on the planet (I've got a fair few countries to go before I can confirm that but it's my starting point for now). After that we will be into our UK experiences!

x

Monday, 16 April 2012

A Moroccan food odyssey




Hey all

Thanks for your messages and emails, it's been great to hear from you over the last few weeks. We're in London now, staying with our friends Mike and Kristen (thanks SOOO much for having us guys!), again minus Hamish's bag which doesn't seem to like to board the appropriate aircraft at the appropriate time. Hopefully it shows up tomorrow.

I thought I would give you a quick update on Morocco, and promise to post more in the coming week. We had an amazing 2 weeks, 1 week of which was traveling with friends Becs and Christian through some cute wee sea ports and hillside towns in Morocco. The perfect way to end our trip, and we will miss the smiling faces of our travel buddies now that we're back in the real world!

My favorite Moroccan experience was in Essaouira, a sea port about 3 hours from Marrakech, and involved a delicious seafood lunch at the back of a fish market with not another tourist in site. We chose our fish fresh from the sea at the market stalls; it was filleted and gutted at a nearby stand and taken to a grill at the back of the market to be cooked and served up to us at little wooden tables with olives, harissa, tomato salad, bread and drinks. Delicious!

In fact, we ate like royalty every day in Morocco, with delicious tangines, couscous, brochettes (meat skewers) and fresh sea food. Oh, and pastilla! Chicken or pigeon filo pastry with almonds, cinnamon and spices and icing sugar (of all things).

Next update, crazy incidents involving modes of transport.

And photo credits to Becs, Christian, Hamish and me. This one has been a real collaboration.

x


Night markets, Jemaa el Fna, Marrakech


Cooking our dinner, Marrakech

Mint tea, or Berber whiskey


Olives for Africa




Freshly squeezed orange and grapefruit juice

The fish markets, Essaouira

Our fish salesman 

Sardines ready for the grill




Accompaniments 



The leftovers (not that there really were any)

Markets, Essaouira

Moroccan crepes with honey



Donuts, Moroccan style

Another fish dinner, El Jadida

Tagines and pastilla, Meknes

The most amazing sandwich ever

which was almost as big as my head

The team ready to depart for Fes

Our new friend, Aziz in Moulay Idriss

Tuesday, 3 April 2012

Adios Spain

Spanish Sangria

Our last week in Spain has been spent in Andalucia, the quintessentially Spanish province in the south. The 3 cities that we visited here, Cordoba, Granada and Seville, are known for their Moorish architecture and influence, and all have impressive Moorish monuments as their main attractions: the Mezquita in Cordoba, the Alcazar in Seville and the Alhambra in Granada. All of them have been converted to Christian monuments since the Moors were conquered here, except the Alhambra perhaps which seems not to have been altered as much. The most striking example of the conversions is at the Mezquita, which was a beautiful mosque built in the 8th, 9th and 10th centuries. It was converted to a cathedral in the 13th century, and a huge white cathedral nave was inserted right in the middle of the space. It's completely incongruous and rather ugly. Carlos V, the King at the time, allegedly said to the architects of the nave, "You have destroyed something unique in the world and built something that can
be found anywhere."

From Cordoba, we spent 3 days in Granada in an apartment with views of the incredible Alhambra palaces and fort. The Alhambra is one of the most amazing things I've ever seen. It was a visionary and inspired project, with fascinating water structures running through the entire hill top palace complex, including a water staircase with water flowing down the balustrades of an outdoor stairway in one of the gardens. The Alhambra attracts a little over 3 million visitors a year and is Spain's most visited site. Despite this, the palace seems restful and tranquil - something which the Moors seem to have been real masters at achieving. Granada is also home to a renovated Arab bathhouse with amazing lighting, relaxing pools and steam rooms and a huge heated stone that you can lie on. With the Moorish influence, Granada is a real haven for relaxation and rejuvenation.

On our last day in Granada we saw our first Semana Santa procession as well, with hundreds of hooded penitents following huge processional pasos, or floats that depict the events prior to Jesus' death. The pasos are carried by members of the Church and are so heavy that they stop frequently for rests. All up, some of the processions can last up to 14 hours. They are all led by huge marching bands of musicians through the crowded streets. Whilst I can't identify with the religious aspects of the parades, the atmosphere has been something to behold.

Seville, our last stop in Spain, smells like orange blossom and wisteria - if only i could take a picture of the smell for you. It's intoxicating. The Alcazar here is the oldest palace still in use in Europe, and the cathedral is the largest Gothic style cathedral in the world. The streets are lined with orange and lemon trees and there are fountains everywhere. It's a beautiful city that's worth visiting if you're heading this way anytime soon.

Just under two weeks until we arrive in London (!) Tomorrow we're off to Morocco for the last leg of our travels before we head back to responsibility and other grown up things.


The Mihrab, Mezquita

Mezquita, Cordoba

Mezquita, Cordoba

The Catholic conversion, Mezquita

Abandoned convent, Granada

View of Granada from the Alhambra

The fort, Alhambra

The Alhambra from our apartment


At the Alhambra

Nasrid Palace, Alhambra

Nasrid Palace, Alhambra

Elaborate decorations that line the walls of the Nasrid Palace

Gardens of the Generalife Summer Palace, Alhambra

Gardens of the Generalife Summer Palace, Alhambra

Hooded Penitents, Granada

Semana Santa procession, Granada

Pasos float, Granada

Seville Cathedral

Gardens of the Alcazar, Seville

Orange tree lined streets, Seville