Tuesday, 27 March 2012

A slow news day

It's been a quiet week for me. I have been huddling under piles of blankets with a throat infection. A real heavy hitter too. Am now armed with antibiotics so will hopefully be back on track soon.

In the meantime, we've been in Barcelona, Girona, San Sebastian and Salamanca, and I'm writing to you from Cordoba. That's quite a distance we've covered in a week but I'll keep this short as I've missed most of it in my foggy haze. Highlights (apart from the inside of hotel rooms of which I can tell you a great deal) include:
  •  Gaudi's Sagrada Familia, inside and out. It's still 30 pus years from completion but what a spectacular building. It's such a visionary space. 
  • San Sebastian. A beautiful beach, gorgeous city, and great local cuisine.
  • An unorthodox inclusion on the list, Girona. If it hadn't been pouring with rain, I suspect this would have been a highlight but seeing as it was literally bucketing down the whole day we were there, we didn't see a lot. The old city did have a great Jewish history museum covering the city's Jewish heritage prior to the Christian expulsion of all Spanish Jews in the late 15th century. The building housing the museum was also a welcome relief from the rain!
That's all from me for now - will leave you with a few photos from the week, both mine and Hamish's this time as I haven't been out much to take any photos

x

Hamish at Camp Nou for Barcelona FC v Granada

The Passion Facade, Sagrada Familia


Inside the Sagrada Familia


Stained glass windows at the Sagrada Familia

Pals, north of Barcelona

Pals, in the rain

Palafrugell, Costa Brava

Palafrugell, Costa Brava

Montserrat monastery

Montserrat monastery

Inside the monastery church, Montserrat

San Sebastian

San Sebastian

Salamanca

Salamanca

Salamanca

Salamanca

Salamanca univeristy

Salamanca, a facade of the old university

Tuesday, 20 March 2012

In December drinking Horchata ...



Ok, so it's not December, but we did try some horchata in Valencia. It's sweet and kind of powdery tasting but pretty good really.

It seems like a long time has passed since I last reported back, but in fact it was just a week ago. We are in Barcelona now - what a fantastic city. I am in love with Gaudi's architecture; it's inspiring and futuristic and fantastical. His buildings are such an asset to this city - more on this next time when we've seen the Sagrada Familia!

Before Barcelona, we spent a few days in Valencia. Valencia is much more mainstream and to us felt less touristy. The city was packed because of the festival, Las Fallas, that was on. Las Fallas, which I posted a little link to in my last post, is a crazy festival. The point of it all is inexplicable to the casual observer - it seems like a lot of fireworks, gun powder and drinking. Apparently though, it's meant to mark the start of spring and to celebrate the city's patron saint, Our Lady of the Forsaken. There are people setting off firecrackers everywhere, and little firecrackers of gun powder that don't sparkle but simply explode with a sharp crack. No one seems to blink at these, despite me getting a fright at every random explosion. The streets sound like I imagine a war zone would sound like, except that they are also filled with huge cartoon statues and flags so it does't look that way at all!

Every day leading up to the burning of the Fallas statues throughout the city, there is a huge gun powder explosion called the mascleta where local neighborhoods compete against each other for the most spectacular gun powder explosion. The explosions last around 15 minutes and shake the earth beneath your feet with their ferocity. You can feel the explosions in your chest and the air vibrates with the sound of the gun powder going off. The air is also thick with smoke for at least the last 5 minutes of the display. People line the streets for several hours beforehand to catch a glimpse of the mascleta. And then there's the fireworks at night - at least 4 nights before the Fallas are burned there are spectacular fireworks at around 1am where the roads are closed nearby and the streets are filled with people. And finally, the Fallas are burned on the final night of the festival. All up, it was a bizarre few days to be honest but really interesting and we got a good glimpse of how beautiful Valencia is.

I've already mentioned that we had a day in Cuenca before Valencia. The old city is built on the edge of a steep ravine heading down to the river. It's home to some famous houses that date back to the 15th century called las cases colgadas, or hanging houses. The most famous of them now houses a fantastic Spanish contemporary art collection. If you're interested in contemporary art, check out the museum website. The artists are listed in the collections tab - our favorites were Fernando Zóbel and José Guerrero. 

That's it for now. Back in touch soon. Tonight we are off to see Barcelona FC play at Camp Nou!

View from the top, Cuenca



Night view from our hotel room, Cuenca

The famous hanging houses

View from the St Paul bridge, Cuenca

Streets of colourful houses, Cuenca

Las Fallas, Valencia

Angela Merkel


Hopefully you can get an idea of how huge these things are from this picture

Rows of gun powder being set up in anticipation of the mascleta

This is a Fallas of a Fallas, if that makes any sense

Spanish staple - chocolate con chorros



Horchata, made with tiger nuts

The Fallas queen and her falleras at the mascleta

Sagrada Familia facade, Barcelona

La Boqueria, Barcelona - allegedly the best market in Spain (and possibly Europe)

Chocolates in la Boqueria

Another excellent Spanish invention

Every possible combination of fruit juice

This one is for my Dad and Don - rows and rows of nougats at la Boqueria

Down at the port, Barcelona

Casa Batllo, Gaudi, Barcelona

At Barri Gòtic

La Catedral, Barri Gòtic, Barcelona

Park Güell, Gaudi, Barcelona

Park Güell

Park Güell

Gaudi, the genius

Tuesday, 13 March 2012

Good morning Kiwis




As I sit here, i'm imagining you all back home having breakfast or heading off on your day's adventures. I’m writing this from our hotel window in Cuenca. Ok, so it's not the greatest photo ever taken but would you look at that view! It's warm and sun bathed and fresh.

We’ve been in Spain for five full days now. Our first five days on European soil. It feels good. It’s springtime too. Have I ever told you that I love springtime? I love it. It’s so full of promise and anticipation, excitement and good things. It’s also heading towards Easter and you can see why Easter is such a different northern hemisphere thing. The promise, the newness, the fresh air and the chance to start again all make it the perfect festival for the season. We’ll be celebrating Semana Santa in Andalucía, which is the province with one of the biggest and brightest Easter festivals in all of Spain. Watch this space.

I’m overwhelmed by the age of Europe, by the length and breadth of its history. We walked through an old city gate today that was built in the 13th century. The 13th century! I’ve never seen anything so old before. And to think that it still stands and is used today. 

For the last two days, in Toledo, we wandered around old cobbled streets that make Camagüey's labyrinth look orderly. Most of the old town of Toledo was built before 1600, before the capital was moved to Madrid so that the Spanish monarchy could get the post faster. I can relate to that, not being gifted with great amounts of patience. The whole town of Toledo is made from huge stone blocks, and I've been thinking about how people built these great monuments, perched up on hills and surrounded by rivers. I wonder what people's lives were like here hundreds of years ago. In Spain, I feel so close to the past it's like I could reach out and touch it. I can see Roman soldiers walking through banquet halls, priests in their ornate robes, and townsfolk in the plazas from hundreds of years ago. I've never been able to imagine history so vividly before.

Tomorrow we spend the day here in Cuenca, and then catch the train to Valencia for Las Fallas festival where there are fireworks and processions everyday. For more info, see this link that seems to have a fairly snappy summary of events. 

The photos below are mostly mine from Madrid and Toledo. 

x


The Museo de Jamón in Madrid

At the market, Madrid
The Royal Palace, Madrid
Madrid
The garden of our hostel with the trees about to burst into leaf, Toledo

Toledo
View towards the new Toledo
Hamish and friend, Toledo

El Greco, Toledo

Cathedral alter, Toledo


Sign advertising sweets made by nuns for sale at one of the many convents in Toledo

Toledo from the Puente de San Martin